Zermatt, is a really expensive place in a really expensive country ($80+ for a ski ticket, fungi pizzas $25). I choose not to ski there this winter. But after visiting last week, I can see why Zermatt and the region deserves all the hype. Even the train ride to Zermatt is epic. The train travels up a steep-sided valley, with towering 4000+ meter peaks in view. However, you don't see the famed Matterhorn until you reach Zermatt (1600m), and the view was simply stunning. I brought my tele-gear and I chose the buy one ride up to Kline Matterhorn, the highest lift access in CH. The last lift was an jaw dropping tram ride. It soared high above a glacier and finished at a station blasted into the side of a shear wall (the small horn in the picture below). The views were amazing (glacier complexes, peaks 3k higher then the valleys, lifts everywhere, etc.). I slapped on my skis and started a ski tour at 3900 meters (well above the top of Mount Baker at home). I reached Briethorn (4164m) a couple hours later, just as the clouds began to roll in. It took me over an hour to ski back to Zermatt, skiing down ~2500 meters in one run. That was plenty.
Showing posts with label Skiing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Skiing. Show all posts
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
Zermatt and Matterhorn
Zermatt, is a really expensive place in a really expensive country ($80+ for a ski ticket, fungi pizzas $25). I choose not to ski there this winter. But after visiting last week, I can see why Zermatt and the region deserves all the hype. Even the train ride to Zermatt is epic. The train travels up a steep-sided valley, with towering 4000+ meter peaks in view. However, you don't see the famed Matterhorn until you reach Zermatt (1600m), and the view was simply stunning. I brought my tele-gear and I chose the buy one ride up to Kline Matterhorn, the highest lift access in CH. The last lift was an jaw dropping tram ride. It soared high above a glacier and finished at a station blasted into the side of a shear wall (the small horn in the picture below). The views were amazing (glacier complexes, peaks 3k higher then the valleys, lifts everywhere, etc.). I slapped on my skis and started a ski tour at 3900 meters (well above the top of Mount Baker at home). I reached Briethorn (4164m) a couple hours later, just as the clouds began to roll in. It took me over an hour to ski back to Zermatt, skiing down ~2500 meters in one run. That was plenty. Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Ski Tour: April Morning
Darrell joined some Engadiner friends for a ski tour to Piz Salteras. Firm snow going up that softened on the way down. Only 999,999 more ski tours in Switzerland left to do.
Tuesday, March 29, 2011
Morteratsch Glacier
FYI: despite the fact that it is the only glacier it Switzerland you can cross country ski too, the current ski maps fails to point it out as a interest point.
Wednesday, March 9, 2011
Never Get Tired of This
Fiona and I set out on one of Davos' classic ski-only valley tours. 6km up the valley with a nice restaurant near the top. I will never get tired of skiing by old farm buildings beneath sun kissed mountain peaks.
Sunday, March 6, 2011
Andermatt Ski Experience
Christine, Reto and I (Darrell) went alpine skiing at Andermatt. It was a fun experience. Reto showed us some of the stashes of powder on one of Swizterland's freeride capitals. Freeride means off the groomed runs. We used t-bars, chairlifts, trams, trains, and even a closed highway to get around. It would have made a transport engineer proud!
We finished the day with an excellent 1500 m decent ending at remote Dorf and a lovely pub with outdoor seating (below). Perfect timing, we had a drink and tort just before the sun dipped behind the hill. Thank you Reto and Christine for a great day.
Saturday, February 26, 2011
Flying Dog
Fiona is 13 years old, so it is pretty funny to see how excited she gets around snow. She loves to race after us on a downhill. I am amazed by how fast she can go. Europe still hasn't adopted a Methow Valley (Washington)-style Doggy Dash, so we will have to wait another year to compete. Are there age-divisions in the Doggy Dash? Fiona wants a Doggy Marathon.
Thursday, February 24, 2011
Ski Tunnel
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Klister and the Gseiser Tal Marathon
Ah you haven't lived until your success depends on a small tube of temperamental sticky gu, called Klister! It is pretty amazing, the taffy like substance when applied correctly to your ski, adheres to ice and wet snow, yet lets to glide with ease. The stress begins an hour so so before the race, when you try to apply it to your skis. Too much and the ski doesn't glide, too little and it wears away prematurely during the race. There are different Klisters for different temperature and snow types. This race started in the rock-hard ice in the shade but finished with sun-softened wet snow and I was applying the Klister 'old-school.' Using the hatch of the rental car for a bench, smearing the layers of Klister on with my thumb and keeping the Klister warm and pliable (in my shorts). I made the decision that a Klister iron was too expensive to send to/worth buying in Europe. Can you tell I was stressed?
In the end, after my skis were prepared, I put the tube in my shorts for the race - just in case I needed it. The race started with a blistering pace, 710 skiers going downhill on a narrowing trail is always fun. Every once and a while someone's ski would stop, a result of too much Klister, launching the skier to the ground and taking other skiers with him.
My careful, Klister application was scraped off in the first half of the race when I didn't need it. As the trail started to go up (hills) my skis were no longer sticking. My kicks were useless and my arms were tired from 28 km of double poling. Grrrr, my heart raced as I struggled to grip the trail, wasted energy with each slip. I had to make a decision, either stop to apply more Klister and lose time while applying it or suffer on. I could see the rest of the course in front of me, a 300 meter climb up valley and than a swooping decent to the finish, 12 k left in all. I stopped, grabbed the tube from my shorts while other competitors skied by me. I hastily slobbered some more Klister on to my skis (in a fraction of the time or care it took the first time). I put my skis back on worrying if the layer was too thick and if I would glide. The 'in my shorts Klister' worked like a dream. Now, my kick worked. All the training I did this winter began to pay off. I picked off racers, passed all those who passed me when I reapplied. Faster and faster I kicked, taking another 10 racers. As I crested the hill, I was exhausted, my legs were rubber but Klister was my friend. The decent was fast and fun. I thought of the tour de France video where bikers came in on a corner too fast and volley off the hill. For me, if I volleyed, I would ski off into sharp broken snow, would certainly fall and likely cut myself on the ice... but, I remained on the course. The Klister held for one last hill and sprint to the finish. Ruth cheered me all the way. Only the other racers around me knew what it was like. And then I smiled ... what a race!
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Good Times Climbing
Those who know me, know I like to climb passes on my bicycle. Well in Switzerland you can climb passes on skis. In this picture I am just starting back down Col de le Croix in Vaud. A few weeks ago I skied up the sledging run at Oberalp Pass near Andermatt, 570 meters.
Saturday, February 12, 2011
In search of snow.
It hasn't snowed in a month, and temperatures have been above freezing for 2 weeks straight. The local ski trails have all closed... so Ruth and I traveled to the Vaud Alpes (4 hours away) for a change in language (French) and some high altitude skiing. Le Mosses, the sight of the Swiss Ski Championship last weekend went to great measure to have good ski trails. For 10 km, they drove a snowblower on each side of the trail to throw snow on the track! Hello carbon footprint!
More importantly though, the views were pretty amazing and we are looking forward to some summer hiking here.
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
Are you Above or Below the Clouds?
| Stoos, SZ |
Ruth, me and some other lucky souls are happy to be above the low clouds. Zurich and the rest of the Mittlelands of Switzerland are stuck under the clouds in a gray malaise. I learned that luck has little to do with where the Swiss end up for outdoor adventures. Most know the expected cloud height as part of their Weather Forecast.
Thursday, January 27, 2011
Rare Darrell Sighting
If you want to see Darrell this winter, you better head to the nearest Langlauf Loipen (Cross Country Ski trails). Half way through the season, I have checked out 18 of the largest cross country centers in Switzerland. Photo credit: Stephanie Eckard.
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Proper Use of 'Apres Skis'
Smart Swiss have realized skis are not just for skiing any more. When you are finished for the day they make a great bar. Where is the Shot-Ski?
Sunday, January 16, 2011
Wildhaus Plateau and Cloud Cover
In the Alps, layered sediments and thrust faults caused or allowed for a number of high plateaus to form as the glaciers retreated 13,000 years ago. As a result, at Wildhaus (and other ski areas like Engelberg), you take a tram/lift from the valley floor to a plateau. Alpine Skiers take another lift (or many lifts) to reach the high peaks. The plateau itself can have lovely nordic and multipurpose trails tracking across them. At 1500 meters, this plateau was perfect. I skied in the sunshine while thick clouds (hovering at 1300 meters) darkened much of northern Switzerland and the valley below. .
Thursday, January 13, 2011
Ski Fahren am Fluss
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
Ski Trains
| The Gotthard Zermatt Bahn pulling up to the Beil station in the Goms Valley |
So what is a ski train? Some may be familiar with the Winter Park Ski Train in Colorado. It is a special train that leaves Denver early in the morning for a full day of skiing in the mountains. The same train takes you home in the evening. It is great.
However, Switzerland's regular train service through the mountains and valleys means you can plan something entirely different. Here are at least three regions where hourly trains run parallel with cross country ski trails. It is easy to ski up on down the valleys and plan to take the train back to your starting point. I love it. Ruth and I (with different abilities) can ski at different rates of speed and meet back on the trains.
Monday, January 10, 2011
Happy Man: Beer on the train with a map of the route.
Am I predictable? Are the Swiss trains perfect for me? I used the Gotthard-Zermatt Bahn to go skiing in the Goms Valley. On the way home, I pulled out the bier I had chilling in the snow, while we skied. With bier in hand, I used the map in between the seats, following along with what passed by the windows outside. Perfect, don't you think?
Sunday, January 9, 2011
Loschental
Loschental: This hopelessly steep valley, carved deep by glaciers in the Alps was difficult for me to reach (a Gondola, 2 buses, and a train up a hillside). The valley remained in the shadows of the southern peaks until well after noon. With clear skiess it was downright cold! The cold and dry air caused giant new crystals to grow in the snow. When the sunshine reach the valley floor, the snow sparkled like diamonds. I really enjoyed skiing up the valley, past the last plowed road, through two shuttered villages in hibernation for the winter, to the base of a mighty glacier.
Monday, January 3, 2011
Snow Scape
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