I took a good friend from the US (Brian) cross country skiing. At the last minute, we decided to ski east from St. Mortiz to a place called Morteratsch which was a train stop, hotel and restaurant at the confluence of two valleys...and in the distance I could see the crevasses of a glacier. A popular trail headed up towards it. The last 2.8 k of the trail we skied up a valley with recently (glacially) carved walls and hummocky terrain. Glacial retreat, I thought, and started snapping lots of pictures. The trail lead to the toe of the Glacier Morteratsch, its blue ice was frozen hard to the ground. Amazingly, in 1875 the glacier toe was 100 meters from the hotel site. It had retreated 2.7 km in 136 years of record keeping (0.2 more since the ski trail and map was made). With the low snow fall this year, I am afraid that people will have to ski farther to reach its toe next year.
FYI: despite the fact that it is the only glacier it Switzerland you can cross country ski too, the current ski maps fails to point it out as a interest point.
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